Tuamotu - Captain Notes | Sailing Collective Travel Co.

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Captain Notes

Tuamotu - Captain Notes

by Sailing Collective | September 1, 2024

The Tuamotu Archipelago is one of the largest chains of atolls in the world, stretching approximately 1,000 nautical miles—a distance that spans one-third of the Atlantic Ocean in comparison. Along with the Society, Marquesas, Austral, and Gambier islands, these distinct archipelagos make up the entirety of French Polynesia. Tuamotu consists of around 78 low-lying atolls, varying widely in size and the distances between, often requiring 15 hours or more of sail time navigating from one to another. Only 30 of the atolls are navigable with safe anchorages, and many of the commonly visited atolls in the Western Tuamotu include Rangiroa, Takaroa, Ahe, and Apataki, in part due to their close proximity to Tahiti. The landscape of these atolls is like a study in nature's most elemental forms: land outlined by coral reefs, their sandy rims barely grazing the horizon, while coconut palms sway lazily against the cerulean sky and sea. Life here thrives at the water’s edge, where the nutrient-rich currents fuel a teeming underwater world, sustaining both the ecosystem and the people who have long adapted to its rhythms.

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Makatea

15° 50' 23.2044'' S 148° 17' 14.7336'' W

Makatea is located on the outer cluster of the Tuamotu Archipelago by roughly 90 nautical miles with Tahiti and Moorea 130 nautical miles to the southwest. The island is an uplifted atoll which follows the usual patterns of an atoll, only once the island sank, the inner lagoon was raised by tectonic forces. The outer reef remains and the landmass is enveloped by lush jungle terrain. There is only one harbor on the island located on the western coast. It is not possible to anchor anywhere around the island and four moorings have been set for public use. The moorings sit in deep water and are located close to the reef that sits at the waterline. The harbor are protected from the prevailing east winds and exposed to north, south, and west winds. The caretaker of the harbor is named Julian with his phone number widely accessible, it’s advised to call in advance to confirm conditions are suitable to utilize the moorings.

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Tikehau

15° 6' 12.978'' S 148° 14' 1.374'' W

There is only one passage in Tikehau located on the western coast of the atoll. Passe Tuheiava is a short and narrow passage located south of Teonai Motu to the north and Vanea Motu to the south. It is important to time the passage at slack tide to avoid the strong currents that can reach up to speeds of 10 knots. Compared to other passes in the Tuamotu, Tikehau has moderate conditions, primarily due to its westward entrance on the leeward side of the prevailing swell direction. Located near the main village of Tuherahera, the Tikehau Village anchorage is popular for its easy access to local amenities, including shops and the airport. The lagoon is calm, but care should be taken to avoid coral heads. On the eastern side of the atoll, near the Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort is Motu Aua, this anchorage offers a quieter, more secluded location with access to pristine beaches and excellent snorkeling. Just inside Tuheiava Pass is an anchorage commonly referred to as the Pass Anchorage , this is convenient for those looking to dive or snorkel the famous pass, known for its marine life and strong currents. Cautiousness is required with tide schedules when entering and exiting the pass. On the southern edge of the atoll is an anchorage that is well protected and offers stunning views of untouched motus and vibrant coral reefs. It’s ideal for those looking for a more remote experience.

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Rangiroa

14° 58' 16.734'' S 147° 38' 37.2552'' W

There are two passage options to enter Rangiroa, Passe D’Avatoru to the west and Passe de Tiputa to the east, the ladder is recommended for cruisers because the currents and sea-state is often more tenable for maneuvering than the east pass. Passe de Tiputa is angled opening to the northeast and more exposed to the prevailing swell direction. Large waves will wrap around the point of Tiputa Motu causing steep standing waves. and angle. Once safely within the lagoon, the Ohotu Motu anchorage sits just east of Tiputa pass and is the primary anchorage in Rangiora. Ashore is a laid-back charming village with limited provisions and a number of restaurants known as “Snack” restaurants. The anchorage is located near the eastern Tiputa Pass. It’s a mostly calm location, shielded by the reliable southeast trade winds, though you’ll want to stay mindful of those unexpected shifts from the north and west and waves that can kick up from the wind within the lagoon. Large underwater coral heads lay beneath the water’s surface and are scattered throughout the lagoon within Rangiroa. The Ohotu Motu has limited coral heads compared to other motus but enough to have an anchor chain fouled. The lagoon within Rangiroa is 60 miles wide with a 100 miles circumference outlined by roughly 400 smaller motu islands. Due to the large number of coral heads, anchorages are limited.

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Recommended Day Anchorages

Blue Lagoon, Rangiroa
Motu Fara, Rangiroa
Teonai, Tikehau
Motu Ohihi, Tikehau
Tetiaroa
Passe Tehere, Tatarina, Toau
Totoro, Apataki

Itinerary Duration

If chartering from Tahiti, a minimum of 14-day itinerary is recommended for the Tuamotu Archipelago. It can take a range of 35 to 50 hours to complete the passage between Tahiti and the closest atoll in the Tuamotu and sailing from atoll to atoll once within the Tuamotu upwards of 10 to 20 hours, extra time is required. For long term cruisers, it’s recommended to explore the Tuamotus for a month and could even be extended up to an entire sailing season.

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Local Foods

Fafaru is a dish born from the beach and born out of local tradition. Its ingredients are a mix of fermented crabs, fish, and coconut water and it won’t be on your typical hotel restaurant menu. It starts simply by collecting crabs, shrimp, or any local catch, crushing them, and placing them into a large bucket filled with seawater. The concoction sits under the sun allowing nature to take its course of fermentation over the span of a few days. Once ready, strain out the crabs leaving behind a potent, briny liquid. A few hours before you’re ready to serve, slice raw tuna filets and let them bathe in this fermented seawater, allowing the fish to soak in the oceanic flavor. When it’s time to plate, you take the marinated tuna and finish it with a topping of mitihue, a fermented coconut milk that adds a creamy, tangy note.

Season

The sailing season in the Tuamotu Archipelago typically runs from April to October, when the trade winds from the southeast, known locally as the "Maramu" wind. These winds create favorable conditions for smooth sailing, with average speeds of 15 to 20 knots. The weather during this season is generally dry and sunny, though occasional squalls can pop up. Cold fronts and low-pressure systems from the Southern Ocean can push northward, disrupting the usual southeast trade winds. This can result in a shift to stronger between 20 to 40 knots with cooler winds from the south. These Antarctic-driven systems are more common during the Southern Hemisphere's winter months, and sailors in the Tuamotus should be aware of their potential impact on local conditions as they can persist for a week or even a month at a time.

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Good to Know

Dealing with Bommies

Bommies is the common vernacular for large coral heads that sit on the seafloor often in shallow sandy areas and ubiquitous within the lagoons in the Tuamotu. Without following common anchoring methods, specially floating your anchor, you can risk having your anchor road wrapped around a bommie, in some cases requiring hiring a dive team to retrieve your anchor or losing your anchor chain entirely, as well as damaging the coral itself. It’s highly recommended to arrive at your anchorage with good sunlight so you can see the seafloor. Once you find a patch of sand with limited bommies, as you set your anchor tie floats (you can use your fenders) to the chain every 6 or so meters this way your anchor will gradually be suspended in the water and not laying on the seabed where it risks dragging around a coral head.

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Captain Notes